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Miscellaneous Jewelry Repair Tips
(listed in alpha order)
 compiled from members of jewelry affiliations
Jewelcollect & The Jewelry Ring

 

Aurora Borealis (Applying or Removing Coating)

Is there anyway to get a stone AB-coated?  How was the process done originally?  Carol

Try scrubbing with Simichrome -- works for me. I had a piece that I used this method on and instead of removing the finish on all the facets of my marquis stone, I just removed the finish on the top surface (the table). Looks good!  Anne (the beady eye)

Yes, buffing with a high power buffing wheel (is it really worth it?) Linda Wisler

 Bakelite (Cleaning)

  • Jewelry Joose is a good cleaner for bakelite. Rinse and dry.
     

  • Also try polishing dulled Bakelite with simichrome, too -- just be sure to clean it thoroughly after. Really does bring a beautiful luster to well-worn pieces. Another product for reviving plastics of all types that a bunch of use with great success is WD-40. You know how 50's charm bracelets with plastic beads can turn all dulled around the edges over time? If you simply spray the piece with WD-40 then put it in a ziplock bag for a day or more, you'll see amazing, long-lasting shiny results!  Anne - the beady eye
  • You can use 409 so anything that has either an abrasive in it or that has an acid that will break down the top layer of the polymer will test it. Make sure that you have neutralized that bakelite with warm water or a little Windex with vinegar in it on a q-tip afterwards because if it is a little acidic it might cause a dull spot. Penny Whitlow

Cigarette Smoke - removing smell from jewelry

  • Baking soda - put some in a container and lay a napkin over it then place the jewelry on it. Cover and let sit. The odor will be absorbed. Jan Gaughan
     

  • The baking soda took a lot of the odor off, but two pieces remained stinky. I went on line and found this really marvelous way to get the odor out.  It is coffee.  I simply buried the pieces in a small bowl of coffee grinds, and magically, the odor is gone. I then brushed the grounds out with a soft makeup brush. It was wonderful, because the kitchen smelled great as well. Next time I am going to buy a can of whole beans, and see if I can eliminate the brushing step. Bonny

CLEANING Metals and Plastics:

  • Maas polish is a very mild, very effective metal polish -- does not do a number on your hands and brings sterling to an unbelievable shine. You can find it on ebay and it lasts forever. 
     
  • WD-40 is my solution for tired-looking plastics -- just spray it inside a plastic ziplock and put your piece inside and work it around. Let the piece sit for a few days -- there's no danger of over-doing it. Also works great for shining Bakelite. Very mild -  organic base.
     
  • I seem to find lots of old brassy pieces and vinegar is a great tool to bring back shine to dull pieces. And as we've discussed, heated vinegar and salt will kill verdigris and will also remove foil from rhinestones.
     
  • As for silver dip, I love 40s industrial-look link bracelets (often vermeil or gold-filled metal) and this will clean up the dark look in all cracks and crevices safely and effectively, where even the most gentle polish (used with a cloth, for instance) has the potential to scratch or even remove the gold finish for good.  Anne - the beady eye

Clips & Clamps

  • Metal - I use metal aluminum clothes pins (I don't think they were clothes pins originally but for something, but they are clothes pin size) when I have to keep glued items from shifting. This is mostly in designing, but I have used them to repair the backs of earrings I was re-gluing, too. I still love that white glue called the ULTIMATE for fixing metal to metal if you cannot solder. I think it is great, non-toxic and you cannot pull the darn stuff apart if you let it cure correctly. Sometimes I find mine at the local Hobby Lobby if I'm in there.  ->Bee Gee McBride (South Texas Trading Company)

  • Wood - Use wooden clothes pins to position and hold hot metal pieces. Use the right stone and make sure the stone's foil backing is perfect or throw it out, because it does not belong, just like a rusted bumper does not go on a refurbished auto. When all is said and done there may be a job that (at this point) you are not capable to tackle. That is OK, send it to someone that is an expert to do it right. One last thing, when something is not working (repairs) walk away from it, go sort something then come back with a fresh mind to tackle it. ->Matthew Ribarich (Antique & Costume Jewelry Replacement Stones)

Dop Sticks - For Picking Up & Placing Rhinestones
Buy them or make your own using that pliable tacky stuff or bees wax (used for straightening pictures, etc) on the end of a tooth pick. Place Dop stick on the "table top"  of the rhinestone and place in rhinestone cup...press down with your finger or flat instrument to seat the stone. (see examples of Dop sticks above) ->Jan Gaughan (Eclectic Vintage)

Glue - Metal to Metal
I still love that white glue called the ULTIMATE for fixing metal to metal if you cannot solder. I think it is great, non-toxic and you cannot pull the darn stuff apart if you let it cure correctly. Sometimes I find mine at the local Hobby Lobby. ->Bee Gee McBride (South Texas Trading Company)

Glue - Set Rhinestones
The most recommended glue is G-S Hypo Cement. It has a precision applicator for fine detail work. Apply a tiny amount into the rhinestone cup (do not overfill) and place your stone down in with your Dop stick - then press on the stone with a flat instrument to seat it. Wipe away any excess glue around the rim of the cup or on the stone. ->General Consensus (Jewelcollect Members)

Magnifying Jewelers Loupe
The most recommended is a 10X Jewelers Loupe to determine condition of a jewelry piece.  ->General Consensus (Jewelcollect Members)

Magnifying Optical Head Piece
There is one thing that helps me more than anything I have and that is my magnifying optical headpiece. I have 2 of them now because I got one in a auction lot not long ago so I keep one in my work area and one by the computer. I can't work without it. I like fixing pave pieces and you just cannot do it without one of those. ->Bee Gee McBride (South Texas Trading Company)

Scratches on Glass
There's a bracelet I want with pictures beneath glass, but some of them have scratches that are visible to the naked eye The seller said the scratches can be buffed from the glass. Has anyone every heard of this? If so, how is it done? Bexter – Enchantment Vintage Jewelry

Yes, assuming the scratches are not too deep or that there isn't a "chunk" missing. I'm sure there are many ways to buff, but I do it with jeweler's rouge and a dremel. You have to be very careful that you maintain the curvature of the glass and that you don't overheat it -- it can ruin what's underneath (the voice of experience). Lightly at the fastest speed is best. I got a new dremel for my birthday and it's twice as powerful as my last. I've also used a nail buffer for really light scratches. My husband uses a huge polishing wheel to buff the rim chips on stemware. Way too fragile for me.

I buff it dry, but the jeweler's rouge provides "slick".  I really should qualify this:  I would never try to do this with very expensive jewelry, because the results are mixed.  I have been able to buff out fine scratches and some small chips on my personal pieces.  It just depends on the glass and its "workability."   Be 100% sure you have glass and not lucite.  Lucite and a dremel do not mix (again, the voice of experience). Georjean

 

Tools (from household to commericial)     

Ronda says:

  • I use some tools from the kitchen - a potato peeler with the sharp side taped and a paring knife that I've dulled by now. I use the tip of the peeler for pressing and the knife tip for digging or scraping. That sounds awful! But it's not like that - it's all gentle.
  • Also use the peeler as a rhinestone scoop. Should prob buy some tools but I'm used to these now.
  • For fine work I use toothpicks, a needle, and a paintbrush.
     

Anne the beady eye says:

  • Ziploc bags in 4x4 size --extra thick
  • good pliers, cutters and thread nippers of all types
  • cleaning supplies, including Maas polish, wd-40, vinegar and salt, and good ol' Dawn for gucky lots. Also like ot have silver dip on hand to clean gold-filled pieces (it removes too much tarnish on sterling for me). 
  • Also, having a good number of trays and pads is very useful -- I buy mine from Store Supply and especially like their white fake leather pads, for they do not attract cat hair (a very big deal in my house).