Jewelryrepair

Jewelry Repair Tips

***Courtesy of Jewelcollect Members***

Below you will find excellent repair tips from those who have learned thru trial and error.

Do not be afraid to use *make shift* tools IF they work properly!

Liz Bryman (Liz Collectible Jewelry & host of JC) says: Having been around quite a long time in costume jewelry collecting and selling, I am very aware of the often difficult tasks we face when something we acquired needs restoring or repair. Well, if it were easy, everyone would be doing it, right? So you have every right to feel proud of your own ingenuity in locating supplies, stocking up on parts, and being able to do your own restorations. After so many trials, errors and mess-ups, we've all honed our skills and are continually polishing them so to speak. And what we know we should pass on to all who follow us in the hobby so that it can continue.

Here is one of my tips not published previously. For basic cleaning, rhinestone replacements, restringing, and more, published tips are already in the HOW TO TIPS and Care and Clean sections on All Info About Jewelry Collecting. You are invited to visit them there, see link under my signature, see left margin SECTIONS. There are many more excellent tips linked from many sites around the Net on the Care and Clean page.

The Pearl Knot That Disappeared:

This may have happened to you also: For some mysterious reason the very knot that is supposed to separate two knotted pearls (imitation or cultured, whatever) is gone. It has come U-N-DONE and instead of the strand appearing even there is now a big gap where two pearls ride into each other, knot missing.

The obvious way to remedy this is of course to reknot the entire strand. This is time consuming, hard to do well if no experience and expensive if it must be given to an expert. The strand may not be worth the cost of professional reknotting. Still, it would be wearable and/or saleable if the pesky "gap" was not there.

Here's what I have done:

In the "gap" I tie another knot using a piece of matching string or thread. It must match perfectly. Around the knot I snip off the two thread ends at c:a 1/2". I push the string ends into the holes of the two pearls, one on each side, using a darning needle. But, there is still a "gap" between the knot and the two pearls, one on each side of the knot. I push that part in too, on each side. To ensure that it stays put and does not slide out again, I put a tiny amount of clear jewelry cement on the exposed parts before pushing them into the holes. A very tiny dab of cement inserted into each pearl hole adds extra insurance, and then I let dry for at least an hour. Bingo, the new knot is now there and no more unsightly "gap."

I only recommend this tip if there is only one or a few knots that came undone. With more lost knots than that it may not be practical to do as it's hard to make the all knots appear original. But for a couple of them, neatly executed, it can be worth doing.

Additional Tip: This also works if a strand of pearls has a break and needs to be re-attached. Be sure to take off at least two pearls at each end of the break, attach the repair string to the string ends thus exposed, and add your own knots. Always hide the repair string ends inside the pearl holes and don't cut them too short so you get unsightly tufts, secure the pushed-in ends with a little clear jewelry cement. Make sure it's neatly done. Remember that if you can see that it looks sloppy, so can everyone else. The best repair or restoration is the one that no one knows has been done. When selling an item that has been repaired, do disclose that however, it's the honest thing to do.

Bee Gee McBride (South Texas Trading Company) says: There is one thing that helps me more than anything I have and that is my magnifying optical headpiece. I have 2 of them now because I got one in a auction lot not long ago so I keep one in my work area and one by the computer. I can't work without it. I like fixing pave pieces and you just cannot do it without one of those. I also like the wax dop stick. Those are great for setting small stones!

I use metal aluminum clothes pins (I don't think they were clothes pins originally but for something, but they are clothes pin size) when I have to keep glued items from shifting. This is mostly in designing, but I have used them to repair the backs of earrings I was regluing, too. I still love that white glue called the ULTIMATE for fixing metal to metal if you cannot solder. I think it is great, non-toxic and you cannot pull the darn stuff apart if you let it cure correctly. Sometimes I find mine at the local Hobby Lobby if I'm in there.

Matthew Ribarich (Antique & Costume Jewelry Replacement Stones) says: Wooden clothes pins to position and hold hot metal pieces. Use the right stone and make sure the stone's foil backing is perfect or throw it out, because it does not belong, just like a rusted bumper does not go on a refurbished auto. When all is said and done there may be a job that (at this point) you are not capable to tackle. That is OK, send it to someone that is an expert to do it right. One last thing, when something is not working (repairs) walk away from it, go sort something then come back with a fresh mind to tackle it.

Susan Gallatin says: How about green guck? I have used a soft toothbrush with baking soda. This seems to remove a good portion of it without damaging anything else.

Holly (Hollihox Vintage Treasures) says: Clip-ons will be the death of me yet! Even with the comfort-key, I cannot find a comfortable medium. Either they pinch me into angony after a few hours, or they are in danger of falling off my lobes. However, I do have a method for tightening pinstems. I use a pair of small bent-nose pliers. Grip the end where the pinstem attaches on both sides and squeeze gently but firmly. Then try moving the stem; repeat until you have the movement easy but firm. You can do the same thing with safety catches that rotate too loosely and won't hold the pinstem. But squeeze GENTLY or you end up with a dented catch that may or may not turn at all.

Francesca (Shimerees) says: I have an additional idea about the procedure of tightening pin stems. Here's a trick to prevent pinstem dents -- put a roll of paper towels around the outside of the end where the pinstem attaches, or wind a roll of tape around the individual prongs of the pliers. This can prevent damaging the metal. As you said, do it gently -- or you could damage it -- and test as you go, otherwise you could crimp it too tightly, and it is more difficult to loosen again without damaging it than it is to tighten.

Kathleen Finderson (Glitter-Gals) says: Here are the 3 best methods of removing green gunk (IMHO).

1. Salt and lemon juice. Make a thin paste, apply with a brush or swab, wait 10 minutes or so, rinse or wipe off. Repeat if needed.

2. Ketchup. Yep, it really works, even tho' it looks horrible. The green gunk sort of leaves the metal and clings onto the ketchup. It is messy, but I cleaned a gorgeous Victorian expansion bracelet with it, and you can't tell where it was damaged.

3. Riceez. Love it or hate it, it really works like a charm on that horrible corrosion, and seems not to damage anything else. I cleaned a beautiful Czech necklace whose enameling and stones were almost completely obscured with mountains of ugly green stuff. You do have to clean it off again very carefully (rinsing and using a soft brush or swab works best) and dry COMPLETELY.

Beth (Emerald City Vintage Costume Jewelry) says: Baking soda idea for polishing off verdigris (aka green gunk). My understanding is that the only way to stop the corrosion process is to use some form of acid -- catsup, mild vinegar solution or (my favorite) lemon juice. I have a bottle of reconstituted lemon juice always at the ready in my frig. ;-) Yet - since baking soda is a buffer, able to neutralize acid or alkali, I wonder if it might not work to halt the corrosion.

Taunya Armstrong says: I work on a piece of foam, or you can use felt as well, this helps to keep the little rhinestone stinkers from bouncing and getting away from you. Another thing I cannot be with out are Popsicle sticks, I use the edges of them to close old tender prongs and they work great!!! My last little trick which I use only when dealing with the super tiny stones is tape. I place a piece of Scotch tape with the sticky side up and place the table side of the stone on the tape so that the point is sticking up and then pick the tape up and just set the stone right down in the setting with the glue waiting for it.

Jan Gaughan (Eclectic Vintage) says: Here's a make shift tip: I put that tacky stuff sold at office supply stores on the end of a toothpick and use it to pick up stones. You can then easily pick up and place the stone in the cup. I know bees wax works well also but I tried the tooth pick trick and it works well for me. Improvise when you can and ONLY if it works properly.

If you have a tip you would like to submit - please e-mail me:

mailto:eclecticvintage@adelphia.net

Eclectic Vintage

http://www.eclecticvintage.com

Please email: eclecticvintage@adelphia.net